he gasket for the pan is very thin on end where the transmission is. it can slip w/o notice when installing. especially if the exhaust wasn't dropped out of the way. those bolts are a taper type. so clean blots and bolts hole are a must. they can be over-torqued and stripped very easily.

cam cover gasket is a preformed rubber type. usually retorquing those is all that's needed.

if you did a front min seal, then you did an oil pump re-seal. the pump requires rtv application as well as the o-ring.

lookie here,

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/...

two black circles. one is the o-ring around the crank main. the other is arond the oil pump. the thin black line shows where rtv should be applied. w/o the rtv, she will leak big time.

evidence of oil leak down low on the passenger side can come from the rt strut. fool you with all the air turbulance in that wheel well.

w/o knowing what all you did, and not even a general idea of where the leak is, i'm just guessing here.

but those are typical re-sealing trouble spots on this engine.

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EDIT,

regarding front crank seal. iffin the crank shaft had evidence of corrosion on it, and it wasn't dressed or a repair sleeve wasn't used (app), she'll continue to leak there.

OIl leaks are almost ALWAYS caused by YOUR POOR OIL CHOICES! People that use only THE the viscosity rating of oil ALONE, also have leaking seals and engines that head for the junk yard SOONEST! junk YARD QUICKEST! Learn to read spec numbers! Read ilsac, jaso, and acea codes, AND gl NUMBERS, AND EVEN THE a AND b RATING OF OILS! O Or just use MOBIL ONE 0W-30 INSTEAD, EVERY TIME! bad oil LEAVES TAR5, SLUDGE AND COKE BEHIND AS A LEGACY! THIS EVENTUALLY CLOGS UP converters> take $20-30 to ANY OIL CHANGE CENTER and ask them to clean your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE and THROTTLE BODY to factory new conditions! The dirty IAC wil ruin your AIR/FUEL mixture and it dirties up from BAD OIL CHOICES and TARRY SLUDGE MAKERS like VALVOLINE! ONce you get your engine clean INSIDE with motor cleaners, and get on MOBIL ONE< and have a CLEAN IAC valve, your car will get MORE power, and mileage and will stop stalling on you! POWER WASH engine with GUNK ORANGE cleaner as well! GOOD LUCK!!

It's leaking because you changed a bunch of gaskets, but did it incorrectly or did not change the ones that were leaking.

Reason your car is leaking oil is because it's a 22 year old car and the bottom of your car is rusty, allowing oil to leak though a tiny rust hole. In this case your best option would be to sell or scrap your car and finance a newer one. you'll save lot of money that way , since you won't be spending couple hundred dollars every month on maintaining it just so it runs.

There is obviously more leaks. I would spend the money on a leak detection service from a mechanic. They will put a luminescent dye in the oil and have you come back in a couple days. Then they will look it over with a black light or something, and tell you all that is leaking.

s for the dying, my guess is you removed some vacuum hoses or something to access something, and either didn't put it back on or it fell off.

I have a 92 Toyota tercel and I have changed all the seals and pan gasket and it's still leaking oil.. where is it coming from? How do I fix it? And ever since I changed the seals it's been trying to die on me when it's idling.. what could this be?