Any brand you recognize. They're almost identical. If you're using conventional, just change it more frequently. There's no magic to synthetic. It just has zero impurities as compared to conventional, which has some, but less than 1% because it's pumped up from the ground. In the end, synthetic just lasts longer.

If you can't afford the extra 5 bucks for a jug of synthetic, buy a bus pass.

use only what the manufacture recommends.

and when it comes to your car never go the cheap way,or you may be left stranded on the side of the road.

buy a bus

I would advise you to use AMSOIL the best 100% Synthetic Oil in the world. AMSOIL goes 25,000 miles on the same oil and filter as well as giving you a 6% savings in fuel.

NO IT IS NOT that good! ALL wax based oil turns BACK into the WAX and TAR it came from! It CANNOT handle heat and leaves dep[sotis in vital engine parts as it decomposes! The EXTRA FIVE to TEN bucks is worth it TOTALLY! ANYONE that claims REG OIL is worth buying at ALL is out of touch! I have professionally desludge UNCOUNTABLE ENGINES from each car maker! The JUNK YARDS are full of REG OIL broken engines and DOMESTIC CASTROL is just NOT as good as EUROPEAN CASTROL! Get MOBIL ONE 0W-30 oil, AMSOIL or PENNZOIL ULTRA that gives at 15 year 500k mile OIL WARRANTY! THAT is GREAT INSURANCE and CONFIDENCE! NO VALVOLINE< the SLUDGE MAKER< either! TH BONUS for using a GREAT SYNTHETIC OIL is longevity and internal CLEANLINESS! NO SLUDGE or tarry deposits EVER FORM AT ALL! NO wearing of cylinder walls, BEARINGS or other places EITHER! NO ENGINE NOISES at start up timer and BEST protection of HYDRAULIC PARTS internally! I HAVE EURO cars out there with 450k TROUBLE FREE MILES!<<> on oil labels! If it EXCEEDS what the car maker wants do you think they REJECT IT for being TOO GOOD??? OF COURSE NOT! That is BOASTFUL and deceptive advertising! The RIGHT OIL for you will have YOUR CAR MAKE$RS approval numbers on it! It is NOT a matter even of BRAND NAME as it is of SPECIFICATION NUMBERS! Remember that when SLUDGE begins to form and bake in from the use of WAX REFINED OIL< it is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to fully remove! Check out PENNZOIL ULTRA and also realize that NO FACTORY ANYWHERE uses VALVOLINE or CASTROL in it! EUROPEAN SYNTHETIC OIL, Ravenol and pentosynth are FACTORY OILS an many other makers use MOBIL ONE for a REASON! The use of lower than DEXOS oil n GM cars voids the warranty! SO NO NO NO NO NO! SPEND THAT EXTRA FIVE BUCKS and get RE$AL OIL and REAL filter! you save $$$ because it last FOUR to FIVE TIMES LONGER SAFELY! AMSOIL gives a 25 k mile oil change interval! REG OIL should be outlawed by now! Check out ANY JUNK YARD you like and see what TAR and SLUDGE and COKE do to engine seals, GASKETS< and engine parts! I KNOW after building TONS of engines from all over this planet! Even CASTROL EDGE is only an OKAY OIL for use in AMERICA! EURO CASTROL is different as they have had LOW SULFUR FUELS for DECADES and we are only NOW getting into this technology HERE! Just TWENTY YEARS later! ENOSE may have been factory for your CAR! If you EVER see REAL SLUDGE and what it does you would stick your NOSE in the air at this JUNK You want to buy! You do NOT have a PUSH ROD two valve Chevy or BUICK here! You should NOT have a G35 if you have NO IDEA how to care for it right! READ OIL LABELS for the NAME of your car on it, at least! DO NOT buy oil only by VISCOSITY RATINGS ALONE! YOUR NISSAN deserves MORE! thew CAM TIMING VARIABLE GEAR you are trying to protect is a $450 + LIST PART PRICE! go GET A push rod CHEVY IF YOU WANT ONE! The g35 NEEDS real synthetic oil TO KEEP IT'S HYDRAULICS CLEAN AND more! yOU EVEN save on gas BY USING EVEN mobil one 0w-30 OIL IN THERE! good luck!!

Any oil you can buy off the shelf will meet or exceed almost any manufacturer's requirements. However, if the car requires synthetic, I would cut costs elsewhere.

Im low on budget right now I was planning to use synthetic but I got bills to pay anyways Inwas planning Castrol GTX, good oil?