"W"- ater "D"- ispersement, "40"th attempted formula that the inventor made. Good stuff thou.
Use PB Blaster (spray can). It will penetrate into the threads. Let soak, heat up bolt with MAPP torch, block flame from fuel line with a some scrap metal, try 6 point socket or a box-end wrench.
Propane???? If your thinking about using that, my suggestion is let the pros do it. Apparently your not mechanically inclined
You use the correct tools, if its trying to round off, use standard socket
Always give year, make and model.
Someone might have run into the same problem and knows an answer that would help.
Torque wrenches and breaker bars use sockets and you just said you can't get a socket on the bolts!!
So now we not only don't have a clue what motor you are working on (playing with) we also don't have a clue what you are thinking! And you're replacing a head gasket?!!! Good luck with that one!
First, need to determine if manifold is retained with stud and nuts or thru-bolts. Heating works by expanding threaded fastener, heating bolt will not really help, and if you reef on hot bolt, will MORE likely break. Soak w/GOOD penetrating oil (P'Blaster, Kroil, etc.), run engine to operating temp., tap bolt heads sharply w/ hammer several times (not hard enough to mushroom head), and use long ratchet or breaker bar with correct size 6 point socket. 12 point socket will tend to round off bolt head in high-torque applications Good luck
The car is a 94 camaro v6 3.4. I have tried wd40 and a regular socket wrench. I haven't used propane because the bolt is close to the fuel line and I didnt want to chance burning it
Do NOT use a torque wrench, as that is not to add torque, but only to measure torque carfully. And the stress of removing something stuck would ruin the calibration.
Manifolds often get rusty and stuck. But they are almost always nuts on studs, to heat almost always is the best means, so that you do not break off the stud. If all else fails, you can also split the nut with a sharp chisel. Use solvent like Liquid Wrench to soak it between heatings. (The expansion and contraction works the solvent in.) Air on an impact wrench works good because on low power, it will still cause a vibration that will work the solvent in and shatter the rust points holding it. Brute force like breaker bar is the very last resort, since it is very hard to drill and retap a broken stud.
I am doing a head gasket job and I have a few stuck bolts on the lower intake manifold that I cant get with a socket wrench. Would it be good to use a rented torque wrench or buy a breaker bar or find something else?
