I had to use them, found it in a minute or two on google,
Replace everything with the correct parts.
Everything that has need of it, and everything that you used
some other make for.
This rig will completely break you and drive you insane.
This is the correct answer.
The remaining problems with wiring can be solved with a thorough inspection and performing the updates.
All the recalls need to be performed.
Service manual updates are available in Mitchell for technicians under "dealer info".
Thats what I found, The book can be very wrong and mislead you but updated info will be diagnostically relevant.
You learn that connectors fit loosely, harnesses get cooked and or shorted, sensors short, and the updated ones that work best are from CROWN.
Sounds from the description like you are losin it at the cap and wires. But that can also be plugged injectors too.
You can back flush them off the car with a few simple steps in
rigging. There are videos on you tube that show what to get, and how to do it.
The u-pull-it yards are full of these vehicles because of the unprotected fuel tank issues.
also, brittle fuel lines can be repaired or replaced if you put your mind to it.
For codes, Enginecodes.com is a source for code definitions and possible causes.
Look at what your codes mean.
A physical condition in an engine can cause a string of codes,
and one malfunctioning cam or crank sensor can cause other codes to be stored in the memory.
A baggy timing chain can cause it to jump time, or cause lagging behind in the distributor and valve system.
The result of this can sometimes be that the computer "covers up" by relearning the signals from a system with excessive play.
See what number of degrees you can turn your damper or "balancer" at the timing marks before your distributor rotor turns with.
These are base engine checks and not the only ones.
I spent a month on one a year older and something was wrong with every system.
Every hose wire and sensor had problems. The j-tec processor was available cheap from a yard. (huge savings.) because it would not make spark anymore even after many repairs.
It was a 4.0L in that case.
There were tech bulletins that showed the many types that jeep used during the confused transition from AMC to MOPAR.
sounds like it could use a good set of plug wires, a distributor cap and rotor button ! it might be the coil so have it checked before buying a new one !
if engine is over heating is possible for engine misfires ..also low fuel pressure ,,,,.how old are the spark plugs,,, wires,,, and distributor cap
well since you got the code reading, why don't you actually look it up and see what they are. it might give you a clue as to where to start looking.
My friend thinks it is the ignition coil or distributor cap. I drive a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The codes from the check engine light were PO 300,301,303,304, and 118. The 118 is the coolant temp sensor. It is a V8 5.2 liter. Any info is appreciated.
