Sounds like there's air in front lines. Use tubes that will fit on bleed valve so air can't get in before you close it off. A little difference in rotors won't make a difference in brake line pressure. It may cause a slight difference in braking grab, especially after brakes get hot (such as coming down a long grade where you have been braking for relatively long periods). It is best to have brakes "balanced" as closely as possible.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how...
Make sure you dont have a hole in the brake line. Check for brake fluid on the ground
Supposedly both sides should get rotors / pads at the same time for equal braking. But if you don't have the funds . . . . .
I suspect your troubles are in the master. Did you "bench bleed" before installing?
The difference in rotor thickness is barely noticable, measured in thousandths. It may pull to one side, but I doubt it.
If the master has air, you can bleed the calipers all day long and never get the last bubble out. Its trapped in the master. Hence the reason to bench bleed.
I have a simple question. I replaced my front right roter in the process of trying to fix my brakes on my truck, it was goners from bad brake pads so i figured it was part of the problem. The new roter is thicker than the one on the left and when my truck is on, the pedal has like zero pressure. so far I have replace both front calipers, the master cylinder, the right roter and bleed the system who knows how many times, and the pedal still feels non existent when the engine is running. Also when the engine is not running the pedal has plenty of pressure. Also when i clamp the front two brake lines right before the calipers the back breaks work and the pedal is firm when the engine is running. So I guess my question is could the difference in roter size between the front right and front left be causing the problem?
Any ideals would be so helpful!
