My van had a battery that intermittently would fail start the engine. I could put it on a charger and the van would start okay for several days. I wasn't sure if my battery was bad or there was a bad battery cable or connection. One low cost parts house said my battery was good. Actually, their tester was faulty. Another said my battery was bad. I went the 2nd opinion and bought a battery. Haven't had a starting problem since I replaced the battery 6 months ago.
Another time, I forgot to turn off my headlights after driving in the rain in the daytime. One parts house said my battery was bad. I didn't tell them what I did. I decided to buy a battery charger and charged the battery. Worked well for the next 2 years.
So, it's hard to say if it was coincidence or if they simply discharged the battery while testing. You'll know within the next 7 days.
If the battery is failing, they should have known it when they started the car to cycle the new oil through the new oil filter.
There are things that could have naturally occurred to instigate this. Your best bet is to take the battery out, and take to a parts store and have them charge it for a few hours, then run a test on it. You should not be testing an almost dead battery.
If the battery wont take a charge or fails the test, replace it. There is nothing the oil change place did to cause your battery to fail. If it charges fine and passes the test, they could have left something on, lights, radio, etc. which drained the battery. No matter what, in this case, I wouldnt go back
It's very possible to show 13.3 volts but fail a simulated load test. If it's a maintenance free battery, they would have had to pry off the sealed caps to pour something in it.
How old is the battery? If it's 4 or more years, it was living on borrowed time anyways. Read this post on how to change a battery on a late model vehicle. It's WAY different than in older cars from the 80;s and earlier
http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/ins...
The test itself could have killed a battery that was on the brink of failure, but it sounds like you had a bad battery. A good battery would not be affected by the test. The fact that they tested it and made you aware of the problem may have saved you from being stranded somewhere with a dead battery.
Yes, it could easily go from 13 volts to dead in a few minutes. Cold cranking amps is the best test of a battery not voltage.
I do not mean to disillusion you but, unless your car is quite old, the 6-8 year battery is long since a thing of the past. You see, in order for starter battery (or any kind of storage battery) to achieve maximum life, it must be held at or near maximum charge all of the time and not be significantly discharged (within reason) at any time. Discharging a battery is a battery killer. The problem today―unlike days of long lived batteries―is that there is never a time when a starter battery is not discharging, even with key off! And the discharge demands on batteries in the past are nowhere near what they are now. So what was once a reasonable expectation of 5 or more years for 3 or more year battery, are today closer to 3 or less years. As evidence you need only to look at the differences―aside from large price increases―in available warranty periods. The old 5 year battery is now a three year “premium” (or such) battery….the very same battery.
Now, about that shop and its free battery check:
1st. It was easy enough to determine the age of our battery, so whether a valid test result or not, they had good reason to tell you, albeit deceitfully maybe, to the effect that a new battery would spare you the inconvenience of an impending, unexpected failed start, perhaps in a while; perhaps very soon.
2nd. As far as DIY, like so much of motoring these days―like OBD2 systems―those saving opportunities have been and continue to be largely removed from the hands of vehicle owners. We now live in a world approaching vehicle disposability: you spend; they dispose.
3rd. But on the bright, and yet still dark and foreboding, side, you oil changers, for all their generosity or malfeasance, has placed themselves in a pickle no matter their good intention…unless they gave you fair and inescapable warning that the freebie test would be done; and gave you unambiguous opportunity to decline. What am I leading up to? Well,…
4th. The law provides that for any work done, you must be provided a statement of work and authorize the work to be done…any additional requiring additional such notice and agreement in writing. So,
5th. If that legal protocol was not followed, then it would be just as if, say, they had removed and discarded your tires; or waxed the exterior in anticipation of payment (for the free service you received). But,
6th. Those and the battery test are or would have been things done without consent, and therefore actionable, prima facie, under the law. So it now boils down to what they would be obliged to do if you sought recovery for whatever happened to you battery…since they took it upon themselves to do something―who cares what it was―to you battery (and not stick with the oil as you authorized). Now,
7th. In typical jurisprudence, the law or judgment in law would require only that you be restored to the condition you were in at the time at which the breach occurred: in your case, a car that starts and had been starting every time. Which leads to the conclusion, not so good for them:
8th. That if a replacement battery is required, then they have taken it upon themselves to beat the liability and cost for same. (No, it won’t help that they produced a “prediction of sorts” of impending or existing battery failure―there is not corroboration apart from the unneeded test the was done (the tampering) without authorization. So,
9th. You might do well to make a generous proposal:
10th. That in spite of the circumstances―after all, you see that they meant no harm―you would be willing out of compassion and a sense of fair play to share the cost of the battery they owe you, and even do the installation if that is their choice. That way, every body shares the pain equally and no one feels, well, unfairly drained.
Take the 12 volt battery to any store that sells new ones *other than Auto Zone. Ask for a free 15 second battery *load test to see what the reserve amperage capacity is. Amperage spins starter motors not voltage.
You had a cheaply made battery, many of them are and have been for many years! I have seen cheaply made batteries fail in less than one year. You may have paid a lot for it, I said cheaply made, not a cheap battery. You do not always get what you pay for when you purchase a cheaply made battery. You may never have experienced a problem with your vehicle not starting, and if they load tested your battery and then it failed, I suspect your battery has been marginal for quite a long period of time.
They test the battery by doing a drop test. This test can be the last straw for a battery if it's on it's last legs; My battery supplier is very reluctant to do one unless your battery has been playing up.
Did you ask them to check the battery? If not ask why they have and demand a BIG discount of the new battery their actions are causing you to buy.
Yes, I think they were cheating you.
I took my car into to get the oil changed today and while there, they showed me a battery test that said my cold cranking amps were at 200, while they should be at 550. But, the voltage was at 13.3. They wanted to sell me a new battery but I told them I can do that myself and much cheaper. When it was done, I went to drive it out and it was dead. They said that batteries are unpredictable and we told you, you should change it. I said just jump it and I will change it myself. In my opinion, they put something on that drained the battery. No way could it go from 13.3 volts to almost nothing in 10 minutes. Am I wrong or do you think they were trying to cheat me? Thank you in advance.
its not possible.the fault maybe a diffferent one.
a scam
