I actually think that PB Blaster is a better penetrant than WD-40. You could also hit them with heat (propane torch) once and let them cool. Other than that, get a large breaker bar and have at them. If the breaker bar doesn't work get a pipe to put over the end and extend it. If you are using a cheap impact gun they often don't have the power to remove stubborn lug nuts. With the breaker bar they'll either let loose of the lug will break.

Use the tighten/loosen method with an impact wrench or a ratchet.

Try to tighten it by hammering on the ratchet one or two times, spray some WD-40 on the lug, then try to loosen by hammering on the ratchet and spray some WD-40. Keep doing it until it will eventually come loose. Using an impact wrench works better though.

Get something called PB Blast and use that instead. Apply ample PB Blast and use a hammer and hammer around the rusted bolt. If that doesn't work, you can impact tighen the surrounding bolt and try to get the rusted bolt out. Another is to get a rust bolt kit off sears, i think it had another name but i forgot, the socket has number of pins in it and it was sold through sears as one socket for all sizes. basically the pin pushes back to fit different sized nut. If the rust is complete and you have no way to get it out with any type of socket, you can drill the middle of the nut, hammer in a hex socket and try to air impact against that. if none of that works then your only option is to break the nut with a sledge hammer and take the wheel out and take it to a shop and they can drill the bolt out of it.

As a last resort go ahead and use the breaker bar and pipe for leverage and (twist) break the lug bolt. They are easy to find and to replace on the hub. This might save you some time. I usually don't mess with them if they are hard to get off just break it.

Ask at the car parts store for a nut splitter. It has a very hard sharp edge that you clamp against the side of the stuck nut & it splits the nut in two as you torque it down.

http://youtu.be/76rlWnmjJfI

Careful with using leverage pipes. You will snap those studs right off, then more work for you to change them out.

WD-40 is an all-purpose lube. It is NOT a rust penetrant. Try PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Apply lots of penetrant. If you have an air chisel apply vibrations to the bolts to break the rust. Vibration, vibration, vibration.

Heat is a last resort.

I use my air chisel and penetrant and it works 95% of the time. I rarely use heat.

You need a 1/2" 6 point socket and a larger breaker bar with a pipe that will fit over the end. You could use the original tire iron that came with the car as well. but you still need a 4' piece of pipe to get more leverage.

yea go to your local parts store and buy a can of JB weld spray it on there and let it sit 5-10 min then try it again with some strength behind it or adding a break bar

Restoring a 68 charger with my dad and we came to find out that the front left wheel and back left wheel's bolts are completely rusted on. We've tried multiple times using WD-40, but got no results. Any tips?