I think Mark has the best answer so far, and just to build on it a bit, plug wires don't last forever, by the time you are ready for new plugs, it doesn't add that much more work and expense to also replace the wires and key distributor bits like cap and rotor. If you have decent quality gas you can advance the ignition a few degrees beyond stock setting, and if you advance it too far it will ping so if you notice this back it off. And if you are the sort of guy that turns up the stereo loud and doesn't hear your engine, don't mess with it just leave it stock setting. If you do mess with your engine, make a point of listening to your engine, you should be able to notice if you've made a change which makes it run rougher. Rebuilding or replacing a carb is another one of those things you need to be attentive to notice improvements and any negative side effects. Too big a carb might make it bog off the line but might feel better at freeway speeds. Unless you also put on headers to relieve exhaust restriction, and cam to relieve internal restriction you may not benefit much from changing just the carb.
If you want to do the carb+cam+headers all the way, Clifford Performance has all the bits...
http://www.cliffordperformance.net/Merch...
Back in the early 60s, MOPAR made a so called "Hyper-Pak" slant 6 with a 4 bbl carb and 195hp and enjoyed some racing success. Article describing that motor, and how to reproduce it with modern components here..
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/hyper-pak.ht...
Get an aftermarket TBI unit for the engine and trash the factory progressive 2 barrel carburetor setup, the head will also need a hardened valve guide rebuild/upgrade to run right longevity wise on unleaded E85 pump gasoline.
Also, you may need to mess with the plug temp rating to get the right plug or hit the mopar sites for more info.
At one time Chrysler did make a four barrel intake for their slant six motors. There use to be an oval track racer (Earl Bodine) who had a home built oval track sprint car that had a slant six with two 97 Stromberg Carburetors mounted back to back that ran on methanol that was nearly unbeatable. The trick was the cylinder head which has individual intake and exhaust ports.
You might better try to adapt a 350 CFM Holley two barrel Carburetor which is more than enough for a stock displacement motor.
If you want to pull them horses out, there are lotsa things you can do.
to make it short your stock 225cid is like 120 hp stock right ?
With some simple things like a carb, a good cam and some higher comp, you can hit 230 hp, with no extensive mods, i dont wanna make a whole thread, so :
Contact me here : ebuetamecus at gmail dot com
buy 3x Chinese Weber 45 DCOE for less than 300 $... dont say they are junk, i tried em, and they are fine ! not as good as the Italian made Original Weber, but definitely waaay better than Spanish/USA(so called USA made IMHO) Webers.
Advantges are tuneability, straightest intake tract possible, one barrel per cylinder. trust me Webers on a 6 cylinder ? HEEELL YEAAAH !
IMO Webers are the best carbs !
I have a 1976 Plymouth Volare and a lot of free time on my hands. I'd like to get under the hood and mess around with some things. I plan on changing out the plugs, repainting the air filter housing, and replacing filters and whatnot, but I'm really interested in seeing if I can squeeze out some more power.
I would like to upgrade the carburetor as I heard that can help. I'd really like to get an edelbrock brand carburetor as I've always heard good things about them. Only, I must confess that I don't know where to begin with picking and choosing a carburetor. I need one that fits my engine, obviously, but I also need one that can squeeze out some more power. I think I've got the adjusting process down, but I just don't know what to look for or get. Suggestions?
Any other tips that you can give to help me get more power out of the engine would help me greatly!
Oh, and in case you need to know, the engine is the 3.7L 225ci slant-6
Thanks !!
