2. Replace all fluids.
3. Turn engine over slowly by hand (wrench and breaker bar) with plugs out and a tiny amount of fogging oil in each cylinder.
4. If engine turns freely, throw in battery and add gas to the tank (that you drained).
5. Turn on, see if fuel pump pressurizes the system.
6. If you have fuel pressure, turn over with plugs out for a few seconds, see if gas is making it to the cylinders.
7. If you have gas, put plugs in and fire it up.
Now onto drivetrain.
I don't recommend getting under the car with candles or any open flame whatsoever- just a bad idea. Oil doesn't need to be particularly warm to work- how do you think a car in Alaska starts in the morning at -29f? If that little bit of viscosity helps, you have bigger issues like a clog. Lubricating the cylinders with the plugs out is necessary but it's still no guarantee that the rings aren't rusted and could break- along with all the bearings and related parts. Crank it over very briefly and slowly- with the plugs out. By hand is ideal if possible, then re-lubricate the cylinders. That is a long time to be sitting so you will likely have problems- even if you do get her to start. Cars are made up of literally tens of thousands of little parts- over time, with oxidation, they rust and fail- especially if they are not being used and lubricated regularly. Good luck.
Firstly, DON'T be tempted to run it on the fuel that is in the tank! ALL you will do is send varnish and sludge into the pump, the filter and even past them and into the injectors, and cost yourself a whole heap of heartache for trying the easy option.
Remove all the spark-plugs, and note the firing order (label the leads and take photos). I make up a little of the following for old engines, to soak past the piston rings. One part diesel, one part engine oil, and a good squirt of WD-40 into it. Put this into a plastic soda bottle, with a 1/8" hole in the lid. Shake to mix well, and squirt it into the cylinders through the plug holes. Do all of them, let it soak in a few hours, and then with a wrench on the crank pulley, turn her over a 1/4 turn. Spray into the plug holes again. Repeat for a couple more times so all the bores have had a good soaking.
Leave the plugs out for the next step too...
Be very careful that no fuel is leaking or any great amount of oil is covering the engine, but now you want to get it nice and warm. Either use a hot-air gun (like a hair-dryer but a lot hotter) on the oil pan, or you can position a number of candles to heat it (watch them all the time, with water/fire extinguisher at the ready) - the heat will make the oil hot and thin it out, to get the best lubrication immediately you crank on the starter.
NOW BLOW THOSE CANDLES OUT!!
Leave the plugs out whilst you purge the fuel-line. Syphon or gravity-drain the tank into a container, and remove the line upstream of the filter,near the engine bay. Direct this into a container too. Get out all that will flow as it comes, and then add a gallon to the tank. Now have an assistant crank the engine and catch all that comes out from the fuel line. Change your filter, and add two fresh gallons. Reconnect fuel line, fit the plugs, and crank - she should start. Let her come up to temperature and run for 20 mins at least. Drain that old oil, change the filter and add fresh oil. Run for another 20 minutes at least. Consider her refreshed and ready to do business - but check all ignition leads, plugs, air filter, dizzy cap, rotor arm - just change all the major-service items, including transmission fluid and rear axle diff oil. Good luck.
Do a compression test to see if the engine is worth saving. Next replacing "ALL" the fluids, then check ALL the rubber bushing under the car for dry rot. Most likely the tires need replacing from dry rot too.
You should start with
1)battery
2)petrol because it would have dried up over the years
3)oils
4)tyres
If you have to ask that, get it down to the GM dealer by towtruck and have them get you fixed up.
They can use the right stuff and turn it back into what it was.
If you would rather, they can also turn it into what it should have been.
I would remove the distributor then prime the oil pump in a heart-beat!
Would it be okay to use cheep oils until I know it's gona run
Take it to the dealer so they can check the parts of the car.
cheap oils are fine. Ian's answer is hard to improve on.
I have a 1982 Camaro z28. 305 tuned port injection. It's been sitting 10 plus years. It was driven 6-7 years ago. I was wondering where I should start to get it running and what are some things I need to do
