you should use a multimeter instead of a test light...
there is always some current to keep computer and the radio,clock settings... use a multimeter and you will get more accurate reading and your amps will significantly drop when you pull the fuse of the affected circuit.
You still have current drain, with ALL the fuses out?
The short has got to be between the battery and the fuse block, or something that doesn't go through the fuse block. I'm thinking that it might be in the starter motor. There should be a fuseable link under the hood; trace the heavy wire from the battery "plus" side to the starter. Disconnect that, and see if you still have current drain.
Your mechanic has given you good advice, so far.
lazy mans method.....
when you park....disconnrct the negative post....
re-attach when needed....
if sometime it Doesnt start then the battery has a problem.....
if it works (starts) all the time...you may have bad diodez in tbs altrnator....or sometbing left on....lime glo e box light..trunk or hood light..or cb radio or amplifier on
door was open. i have a multimeter, just not sure how to use it
The battery in my 92 Chev. pickup goes dead "occasionally". It is not a daily driver, but gets driven enough to keep the battery up. Starts 90% of the time, but you never know the other 10% if it will.
I think I have an electrical short somewhere draining the battery. On advise from a mechanic, I disconnected the negative cable from the battery. Connected my test light between the cable and battery, and the light came on (which is bad according to him). I then pulled the fuses one at a time to see if the test light went out when the fuse was pulled. I pulled every fuse and the test light stayed on each time (which is bad too, according to the mechanic).
Anyone have an idea as to what I should check or do next?
