The starter circuit includes the ignition switch, a heavy duty relay called the solenoid, the starter motor and the battery. Also all the wiring and contacts involved. It could be almost any of these that's got a problem, but the 'click' you hear could be the solenoid or the starter motor 'bendix'. Diagnosis at a distance is unlikely to be accurate, and some of the test that can be done by an amateur are risky if done incorrectly, so I'd suggest getting a reputable auto mechanic to have a look. My own guess is the solenoid, but that's all it is, a guess.
If a jump start works, it's probably the battery - which may indicate a bad battery, a weak charging circuit or a pattern of use (lots of short runs at night, for example) that depletes the battery charge.
AMBIGUITY:
Without further tests, you cannot be certain what the problem is. It could be a defective or discharged battery (discharged because the alternator or voltage regulator is not working, or discharged because something drained the battery (perhaps leaving the lights on over-night)). It could be a bad starter, bad starter solenoid, or bad ignition switch (neutral safety switch). It could be dirty or corroded battery clamps or battery posts.
DIAGNOSING THE PROBLEM:
First determine if the problem is caused by a weak connection to the starter or if it is caused by a shorted starter. To do this, turn on the headlights while trying to start the car. If the headlights dim completely, either the battery is discharged, or the starter is drawing too much power. If, on the other hand, the headlights hardly dim at all, that means that the power is not getting to the starter (so perhaps the battery clamps or battery posts are dirty or corroded).
You cannot test a discharged battery (because you can't tell the difference between a battery that is defective or one that needs charging). So, if you determine that you need to examine the battery, charge it. Car parts stores will often charge a battery for free, or you can buy a cheap battery charger.
It does sound like a starter solenoid that has pitted contacts. Because you hear the starter solenoid click when it doesn't crank the motor over you know it's not the ignition switch or neutral safety switch. If the cables and battery posts are clean and the battery is fully charged It's likely to be the starter. You can have the battery tested just to make sure it doesn't have a dead cell before replacing the starter if you want to be sure.
I had a 1993 Chevy PU with a similar problem It was the starter. I now have a 2010 Chevy Van that had a similar problem. This time it was the battery. Just saying you gotta check everything out before you start replacing parts. I've never had more than one item fail at the same time. It's always been one thing that failed; the starter OR the battery OR the alternator (that failed to charge the battery).
The Click you hear is the contacts on the Starter Solenoid trying to Turn the Flywheel over, so I would say the problem is The Starter Solenoid. They are normally mounted on the Starter motor. You can check if the connections on the solenoid are tight with a spanner or socket, but do this with the ignition off.
If your in the UK starter motors cost 240 upwards. But it does sound like your starter motor is going. I'd say a month or two then it will be fully gone. Mine went within two months and because I ignored it I had to call out RAC to take me and the car home. Best to get it sorted now as it's not nice to be stuck out in the winter weather that's on it's way.
Provided you have clean and tight connections at all points external, It makes me think you have a nippondenso starter in your car.
It has intermittant contact being made internally.
You keep trying and the circular center contact turns a little.
When you reach the best area of the contact, it makes connection with the 2 worn ones on either side.
With ingenuity, it can be fixed.
But if you like guaranteed parts, you can buy a reman starter.
Some folks know the quality of their original, and go to a rebuilder to buy small parts and do their own repair.
I believe the chrysler group sells those contacts separate.
The starter
The starter
Your car is a basic 12volt vehicle, not a 10,000 volt vehicle, every three months you must clean the battery posts of corrosion religiously, also check the alternator output, Make and model is not required for a master tech, only for those who prefer to...........ASSUME.
I'm not sure if it's the starter or something else.
I got a new battery 6 months ago.
About 2 months ago I turned the key in the ignition and everything turned on/worked, but the car wouldn't actually start/turn over. Then it was working just fine the last couple months. But now it has been doing the same thing the last few days. When I turn the key, it'll click just once and then nothing. If I just keep turning the key really fast, then I'll get the click and sometimes the car will almost start, and sometimes the car actually starts all the way. Then there are times when the car starts just fine.
Any ideas on what the issue is?
Thanks.
If you battery not charging or starting related point checkup .
If you battery not charging or starting related point checkup .
The starter
The starter
If you battery not charging or starting related point checkup .
The starter
The starter
The starter
The starter
The starter
The starter
Hi this is one mine field not togged into without a diagnostic tester designed for your make of car. it would be the POKE and NO HOPE route. so time to get it towed to a car dealer that knows the car.
Any private mechanic can do a starter amperage draw test which will show you IF the starter is at fault.
Your car is start slow, try another battery.
Your car is start slow, try another battery.
If you battery not charging or starting related point checkup .
Your car is start slow, try another battery.
Your car is start slow, try another battery.
Your car is start slow, try another battery.
Your car is start slow, try another battery.
