B.S.
Get the pamphlet about emission control recommended repair shops at the test station.
Find out from nissan if there is an emission recall, or method required to get it to pass.
Any money you spend that directly affects the gas(es) in question counts towards a waiver.
I have seen customers get their maintenance tune-up money refunded by the waiver process because it did not change the readings on the next test.
Once you get those emission people involved in granting a waiver, they can provide the steps, and follow the repair.
I have also seen them alter the test conditions from one testing station to another. the vehicle was not polluting, so much as the rpm or the speed could be run a little different.
I have also seen vehicles that had special testing specs mandated by an emission bulletin.
fuel leakage from the injectors, temp sensors, ignition timing, available intake air, sticky thermostat, spark plug issues, ignition system issues, as well as a catalyst can affect HC reading.
they can also render a catalyst ineffective if not corrected.
You dont mention the cause. I think there is a little more to know here...
A number of years ago my older care fail the test. The tech guy told me of a number of things that could cause the problem. I fixed/replace everything he mentioned then had it retested. Still didn't pass, but was told it was from Improper Ignition Timing.
Adjusted the timing & it passed. You don't say how many miles are on it, what condition it is in, or what the work it needs. If it is the timing, defective Ignition components ignition coil/s, distributor/cap, distributor rotor, ignition wires, or spark plugs, even the EGR valve is fairly easy to do the work yourself, or you can find another mechanic that can do it for less.
If it has High Engine Mileage, or you overheated the engine I would think about selling.
FORGET ABOUT IT! Firs get a FULL MOTOR FLUSH as your CAM snesors are jammed up and your CHAINS are full or sludge! then use either MOBIL ONE 0W-30 or PENNZ OI LULTRA 5W-30 oil in there instead! Then get your THROTTLE BOEDY and IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE cleaned up to SHOWROOM with AMSOIL POWER FOAM! Your issue is NOT from the GAS or injector side, but from teh OTHER side of injecftion, the AIR INTAKE SIDE! Your FOOT does NOT add gas at all but only AIR! It is an "AIR":pedal! your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE adds MORE aior as requried to keep the O2 sensors and converter ah\happy! ONE or TWO FULL CANS OF AMSOIL POWER FOAM, run through intkaes and OIL supply wil restore engein to FULL USE again! Then run GUMOPUT SPRAY through yhour PCV VALVE for several minutes! This will clean SLUDGE and TAR from piston rings, and valve heads, stemms and also clean O2 sensors and return thing to NORMAL! STAY AWAY from VALVOLINE for the rest of htis cars life! NO FACTROY USES IT< and it exists by a reuptation it simplyu does NOT deserve! Once engien cleans up INSIDE and the IAC and T body ar SHOWROOM CLEAN< the AIR FUEL mixture wil return to normal and you will NOT need any converters! they wil last the LIFETIME of the car! this is NOT a GM JUNKER PUSH ROD engien! It is a REAL racing engien de-tuned for the street !GOOD LUCK!!
Buy a HYUNDAI..! It will pass now
I have a Nissan Altima GXE 1995
It failed smog test at 15 mph and 25 mph (see photo attached)
I've tried using Techron cleaner and it still failed.
The mechanic said I should replace the catalytic converter which MIGHT pass the smog.
But the thing is, it's going to cost me about $350 and I'm low on budget.
If I spend that much money, there's still no guarantee that it'll pass.
Should I do it?
