Use 85w90 only if you want your engine to seize up.This oil is intended for rear end gears,differential,etc not an engine.If you wanna use oil that's a little bit thicker,use 5W50. The first number(5W) is the weight or oil film thickness during cold starts and the second number(50) is the thickness at operating temp.So a 5W is thinner than a 10W.Don't use 20W50 either.You don't need oil that's this thick during cold starts.You should repair the components causing the oil burning.If its bad piston rings,I realize that requires a rebuild.It could be caused by bad valve seals or valve guides too which is a much easier fix.If this is causing your spark plugs to foul,you can use a spark plug non fouler for a temporary bandaid fix.Keep in mind,using the gear oil listed above will clog everything in your engine up like lifters,oil pump pickup tube,pushrods,etc.Keep a check on your pcv valve and hoses also to make sure they're functioning properly and not clogged.
Your lubrication system will have a difficult time pumping that thick stuff to all the surfaces that need protection. Something new will fail from not getting lubricated.
ABSOLUTELY NOT! Your motor's oil pump can not circulate gear oil which does not have the correct additives as the correct viscosity engine oil.
Use a store brand 20-50. NOT gear oil! It doesn't have the right chemical properties for internal combustion applications. You will ruin your engine w/gear oil as fast as if it was low on oil. Have you considered finding the source of the consumption? If it leaks, carefully tighten the pan bolts like you would lug nuts - opposite sides and a little at a time. Some old style rear drive auto trans [pre-electronic controls] had vacuum modulator valves that failed and sucked oil out of the oil pan. The valve is under $25 and is an external part easy to R&R if you own a set of sockets.This valve used engine vacuum to "tell" the transmission when to shift. Or an O ring that is missing or disintegrated allowing oil to drip out under pressure. Or a blocked PVC valve or rubber hoses cause back pressure forcing oil out. Energy and time spent on a good diagnosis can solve a problem. Don't let mechanics scare you into an expensive repair or rebuild. Research your car make and model on the internet, find a forum for it and ask about your problem to see if others with a similar vehicle have solved the problem.
No, see if you can find recycled 20W-50.
w-50
No but you can use wheel bearing grease. Get a grease gun and pump 4 quarts into the oil spout, you'll be just fine.
I can buy.oil but.I'm cheap. I don't.wanna throw a rod. Car burns a quart a week
