You can buy the replacement part rebuilt for around $60, exchange, in any large city. This will have new CV joints on both ends, new boots and grease on both ends, too. Installation takes an hour first time you do it, about half hour after that. You'll need a decent box of end wrenches, a hammer, a jack, a jackstand, and a HAYNES manual or download from you tube. Or pay a shop $300 to do it.

Most CV boots fail on the outside cv joint (next to the wheel). This is because the rubber boot is squeezed together and flexed greatly as the wheel assembly moves up & down and the wheel is turned left or right.

The only other way that the CV boot fails is because of old age. This reason is the cause of most inner CV boot failures.

Note: There are, out there, Split-CV boot replacements. They allow the mechanic to replace the CV Boot without having to do any tear down of the car. It was a good idea but they simply do not last. If you are lucky, it may last 3 months. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THESE!

CV boot failures are not cause by CV joint failures. CV bot failures can led to CV joint failures.

As for your problem, here are things to consider:

1. If you are rich: Have all the CV Boots replaced. Now, Usually, it is cheaper AND better to have them replace both CV Axles.

2. If the shop has to pull that axle out of the transaxle (in order to replace the boot, AND that axle has a Cir-Clip on the transaxle end, makes sure they replace that Cir-Clip before putting the axle back in. IF this is not done, It may become IMPOSSIBLE to pull that axle out ever again. I have had this happen. These Cir-Clips are damaged when the axles are removed and put back in. Cir-Clips should be considered in this use, to be used once.

Boot is just a dust seal to help protect CV joint from debris. If grease is coming from outboard (wheel) side, seal in hub is shot, not too bad to fix. If inboard (transaxle) side, shaft seal and bushing need to be replaced, quite a bit more spendy. $250 vs. $100 at shop, give or take. IMO, anything in excess of $100 over is verging on gouging. But I haven't had a shop do work in YEARS. Good luck.

you will be buying a new axel quicker cleaned and better than trying to re-boot the old one. should be under 300

My wife had some spots under the car the other day so I checked out underneath and noticed that the CV Boot on the Passanger front side had a gap around the rod that goes into. I'm taking it to a mechanic on Monday but what should I expect? The driver side boot is securely on with no gaps...but the passanger side has a quarter inch gap around the top of the rod where the grease is coming out from the centripital force when she drives. Any info would help...thanks.