dielectric grease on each one of the terminals.Make sure you pull on each individual wire gently just to make sure that the wire and the harness connecter has a tight fit.You can also do what's called the "wiggle" test.Grab any wiring harness that you suspect may be causing the intermittent fault and wiggle/tap/shake it to see if you can recreate the fault.This can track down a electrical fault sometimes.If you can look online and locate a wiring diagram for your vehicle,it will make things easier when diagnosing electrical problems.Some vehicles also have fusible links in the wiring harness between the ignition switch and the underhood wiring going to starter,etc.These links are prone to breakage and melting.This can also create intermittent faults.
The security, antitheft or lock picture/icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well.
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.y...
Examine the wires at the starter.
The one from the ignition switch may be corroded.
Rocking the car while you open windows might be moving the wire a bit.
After checking the ignition switch wire connection block under the steering column I found it was ********. I unscrewed the bolt holing the two wire harnesses together on the block and re-seated them together and tightened the bolt. The car has been starting fine every time since. Thanks everyone for your help!
I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT 3800 Series II non-supercharged that has an intermittent no crank issue when turning the key to the start position. It typically happens when it is warmer outside and the windows have been up while the car was parked in the heat. If I open the windows and let the interior cool down for a bit it will then start up with out an issue.
A little history... I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor the other day because of a P0336 voltage range code that was causing a intermittent check engine light and the tachometer to stop working while driving at times. The GM dealership replaced the ignition switch about 3 years ago because of an issue with the automatic and daylight running lights shutting off when turning on the heater blower fan. I replaced the ignition cylinder last year with an aftermarket one because if the same problem I am having now and it went away until recently. The battery tested good and I also replaced the Neutral Safety switch too just in case. Sometimes I can go weeks before this happens again. I do have a Security light that blinks because I haven't had GM learn the new key cylinder but hasn't been and issue with starting. I truly don't think the pass-lock is the issue. Another bad ignition cylinder? Has anyone else had this issue? Thanks for reading!
