The short answer is yes. See, for example,
http://www.electronicsweekly.com/news/de...
LG, is an idiot. You CAN have a very lightweight 200 horsepower electric motor if it is a high frequency AC design such as the one used in the Tesla Roadster which is a 400 Hertz AC motor. LG, is thinking about industrial 60 Hertz motors that are huge for 200 horsepower.
To answer your question though, it is best to just belt drive directly rather than going through additional losses with generator to electric motor. However, you could stick some batteries in the back seat that are wired in series for something like 48 volts and run the wiring through a contactor and then to a series wound DC motor hooked up to a centrifugal type super charger. The issue I see though is the engine running lean at idle when the electric motor is running at full speed. It seems speed control would be needed to match engine speed change.
I think the main problem is the horse-power available in an electric motor. It's not a trivial amount of power to take like 1600 cubic feet of air per minute and double it's pressure, which would amount to 14psi of boost, which is a mid-scale blower on a V-8 engine running at full RPM and throttle. The math says it's 70hp. But realistically, it's more like 200hp. That blender motor probably makes like 1/4 hp. An electric motor that makes 200 hp, and do it continuosly, is going to be big and heavy. And then it's going to require a big heavy generator to power it.
It is not used because you would have to generate electrical power by, guess what? apping engine power then driving the blower with a motor at the right speed. Efficiency would be less than 95%?
Right now thwy are direct drive(100%) and no generator/motor weight. but it is a good question.
Keep thinking like that.
It depends some on the design of the vehicle and how far above sea level you are driving = ranges from moderately impractical to extremely impractical. At 18,000 feet the passengers need supercharged air worse than the engine.
This question is way to long to even read. Don't waste your time.
First off, I know about the ridiculous fans & whatnot scam artists try to pass off as "electric superchargers" on eBay & elsewhere to clueless idiots to duct tape to their air filters... I'm not talking about that useless crap.
I was just sitting here wondering if it's possible - is it actually possible to spin a real turbo with a high-RPM electric motor and expect to get some kind of real-world, measurable & NOTICEABLE horsepower/torque gains. I haven't really done any research on how these idiots have tried "installing" these wannabe blowers... My idea is probably similar to what other people have tried to do with bathroom ceiling exhaust fans (haha) but the difference with MY idea is to use an actual turbo unit spun by a high-powered, high RPM electric motor - like one of those $200 Kitchen Aid blenders or something... This is a very rough and/or silly idea, I know, but bear with me - I'm just curious to see if it's even feasible or possible AT ALL.
I know the blender motor couldn't run all the time (it would burn up within a few minutes of constant operation) so it would have to be a system that could be "turned on & off" with a switch. Since this "electric supercharger" (turbo spun with electric motor) would be mounted between the air filter box and the throttle body, it would have to be "on" for the engine to get enough air to run. So, in order for the engine to run when the ESC (electric supercharger) is "off", there'd have to be some kind of system in place to allow air to pass thru or around the ESC when it's not running... But, if that was the case, when you did turn the ESC "on", there wouldn't be any way for air pressure to build up (boost) in the hose running from the air box to throttle body, effectively defeating the purpose. The only inexpensive remedy I can imagine is some kind of "switchable, dual supply system" - TWO tubes running from the air box to the throttle body - one normal, and one containing the ESC contraption. It would be a pain in the butt, but I imagine somehow closing off the "normal" air tube manually (a big valve or something) forcing the air to come from the ESC AND allowing for boost pressure. You'd have to pop the hood, turn the ESC "on", get out, run up and close the valve. I'm sure there is some kind of electronic valve that would work, but the whole idea here is making boost CHEAP. (with a blender - lol)
I'm almost embarrassed typing this crap but I'm curious to read what knowledgable mechanics have to say about it.
Almost forgot something very important... I know that in REAL forced induction systems the fuel system needs tweaked or modified. Do you think adding a small amount of boost to a fuel-injected engine would cause it to run like crap (if it runs at all) without working on or adjusting fuel delivery? And yet something else - maybe the throttle body (or something else) will somehow cancel out the boost?? A long time ago when Ford first started putting the modular 4.6 in the Mustangs I read how the engine was SO controlled by the computer that if a blower was installed, the computer would "cancel out" the boost (I'm not sure how). That was almost 20 years ago and flashing ECMs has become commonplace anymore. Now that I think about it, something WOULD have to be done with the throttle - if it DOES manage to get more air, it WILL need more fuel to make more power...
---Alrighty then... I think I have described my "ghetto-blower" to the best of my abilities. If you are an experienced auto mechanic with some knowledge of forced induction systems OR a world-class jiffy-rigger that has pulled this off (haha), don't be afraid to share your 2 cents. Personally, I think this IS possible. Now I know nobody's going to be running 10s with an Escort and a blender, but I like to think a nuclear hillbilly could get 30-40 more HP from JimBob's '91 Aerostar.
Crack a beer, light a smoke & let your mind wander. lol
Have a nice day!
