Calipers are best done in pairs. since you are smokin the pads, better get another set because a pull can persist as a result.
A pair of rotors are probably needed now.
Get the rear brakes working well too.
Then check it carefully to see that you dont have something causing the brakes to apply when they start to warm up.
Master and booster, or pedal troubles.
Take it for a diagnosis and quit playing guess fix mechanic.
Always replace calipers in sets. The square cut O ring inside the caliper is what retracts the piston. When you have a new and old one on the same axle, they retract and apply at different rates.
But I don't think that's the cause of your problem. Either the pads are binding or the caliper is binding. Check the condition of the caliper slide pins. Are they clean and well lubed with high temp synthetic brake grease? If not, grease them with the proper grease. If they're corroded, REPLACE them. Do not try to clean them. Once the anti-rust coating is worn, they will continue to rust. Also replace the caliper slide pin rubber boots to keep water out.
Next, did you replace the anti-rattle clips? If not, replace them with a new hardware set. Heat ruins the old ones. Once you remove the clips, sand off the rust on the abutment and smear on a very light coat of brake grease to slow down rust buildup.
If you've greased the pins and installed new hardware and the calipers still stick, then you've got a hydraulic problem.
Does this have ABS? If so, you may have gotten air in the ABS valve unit. Then would apply the brakes unevenly. Get the bleeding procedure for the ABS unit.
Write back if you need addtl help.
I would go with everything StPaulGuy said except that I have never replaced a caliper unless the bleeder broke off.
If you can retract the caliper with a C-clamp, then it is likely fine.
And it is always easy to rebuild a caliper without any risk.
Brakes are always supposed to be a little hot.
Is one side hotter than the other?
If so, then you still have a problem with the brake that is hottest.
But if they are BOTH very hot, then they master cylinder likely is adjusted too tight, without any freeplay, and it is not allowing pressure to release.
what it could be is the slides need to be cleaned and greased up ! if the caliper slides get dirty then the calipers can,t slide back and forth very well and that can cause the pads to get hot from rubbing on the rotor !
Why is it people with no idea mess with their cars/ bikes then come crying on here when it doesn't work afterwards!
Take it to a garage and let a profi fix your mess and pay the big bill without blinking FOOL!
I need car help I think it's my brakes!?I bought a Honda Civic 2 Door 1994 DX no power window and it's not a hatch back. Forward wheel drive. I changed both front break pads and the calipher on one side but my car will start to grab. It makes it hard to accelerate and then I check the brake pads and the brake pads are hot. Whenever I accelerate and let go of the gas the car slows down. And whenever I accelerate the car steering wheel starts to shake. I think it might be I have to change my other calipher as well because one froze up and I changed it but the other one he was able to push back in.
